La magia de Zona Cafetera...

Yikes, again an entire month somehow passes in what feels like a week! Almost 5 months into my travels and all concept of time has seriously gone out the window. Warp speed, I tell ya...

After Cartagena I hopped on a 15 hour bus ride to Medellin. Yeah, I could have taken a flight for basically the same amount but I absolutely LOVE taking buses. When I return to the US don't be surprised if I start haphazardly hoping on Greyhound buses all over the country to keep the dream alive! On most all the buses I have taken in Colombia I have been the only gringa, which I am also loving. I feel completely comfortable and safe in this country, not that I have really felt at all unsafe this whole trip but people here are remarkably helpful, upbeat, so eager to chat, and clearly just so thankful that traveling in their country is possible again.

So, Medellin. It has an impressive, brand new metro system and it is set in a pretty valley but I didn’t linger too long. Yep, it used to be the land of Pablo Escobar and his violent regime of drugs and Mafioso ways, but times have definitely changed. The northern, fancier area where most of the hostels are could be somewhere in the US. The city center wasn’t too interesting but I know there are tons of parks and attractions I could have gotten myself to, just wasn’t feeling like being in a city at the time. Ankle was getting me down and I was feeling really frustrated about being in Colombia and not able to really dive into it like I want, missing out on salsa dancing and sightseeing - BUT, I am happy to report that in the past week it is noticeably more comfortable to walk, and even a little salsa and bachata in the plaza with the locals! Chevere! (todo chevere aca en Colombia)

I headed out of Medellin in search of a small town and a calm place for continued healing and thankfully I found exactly what I was looking for. Beautiful coffee region, (Zona Cafetera) you are magical. I arrived in Manizales, a mid-sized city, where I stayed for 2 nights and used as a base to visit one of my new favorite places ever - Hacienda Venecia. It is a coffee farm/guesthouse that has been in the same family for many generations and recently they have started offering full day tours. The day that I planned to be picked up from my hostel and check the place out I was the only one interested, so private tour for me! Juan Pablo the manager showed up in his jeep and I spent the day with him and his cousin, a really sweet girl from Bogota. Wow, not only did I learn a ton about the history, cultivation, and process of producing the coffee being consumed in a Starbucks near you, I had the most relaxing day I have had in a really long time. It is absolutely stunning landscape in coffee growing land and after touring the expansive grounds in the jeep and an amazing lunch I lazed the rest of the day away in a hammock by the pool at their guesthouse on the farm… so peaceful, just me, some chickens, dogs, and some amazing Colombians who welcomed me as part of their family for the day.





Next, I headed a few hours south to a town called Salento where I stayed a week, and again, it was exactly the place I needed to find right now. One of my absolute favorites of my 5 months on the road. I lucked out and somehow landed a double bed (say whaaat!?) in the best room with a serious view at a place called the Plantation House- a hostel on a coffee plantation where every morning I awoke in total awe of my surroundings. The town itself is tiny, colorful, well-preserved, and dear to my heart after just a week. It is so small that I think I met every local there at some point or another. Loved it. When I arrived it was a 3-day holiday weekend for a festival de cabalgatas - basically everyone in Salento and beyond was trotting around the town on their horse. It was quite the fiesta and when the crowds left, sleepy little Salento went back to life as usual...









The main attraction for travelers coming to Salento is the Valle de Cocora, a natural wonderland of wax palms in a cloud forest. No hiking for me yet but instead I spent 5 hours touring the area on horseback. Again, a private tour for me. It was a really fun day with my guide Mauricio and my ankle was fine with it too. The scenery is like another planet, a storybook tale, or something of the like. Uniquely beautiful, but 5 hours on horse is a little much...ouch.





Hard to believe that my trip is rapidly winding down, my dear blog followers. BUT! Still one month left in the the adventure... I knew I wanted to end with a month in one place, doing a volunteer project and intensive spanish solidification before heading home, but I was having trouble deciding upon the destination for the last hurrah of Cuentos Del Sur. However, the choice was quite obvious when it came down to it and next week I head back to Santiago, Chile! I am excited to reunite with friends I made when I was there in March/April, work with Chilean kiddies, enjoy the city with friend from home Emily Roellke who is currently studying there, gritar por Chile contra Espana en La Copa Mundial, y hablar muuuuucho espanol... The Santiago chapter will commence on Wednesday and I am incredibly excited!

Hasta pronto y les mando muchos besos desde Bogota:)